Mountains and Monasteries

A Journey Through Barcelona and Beyond: Day Four

We set out early for a day beyond the city, toward a sacred landscape shaped by time and legend. With iconic jagged rock formations and a centuries-old monastery, the mythical mountains of Montserrat have enticed travelers for millennia.

Our first stop was Natural Hípic (Km 0.45, Carretera BV-1122, 08296, Barcelona), a Western-style ranch where we explored the terrain on horseback. The easiest way to get here from the city center is by car. For those relying on public transportation, the journey involves taking trains and cable cars. I’d consult the ranch as they will have the best advice (and perhaps can help finagle a ride).

As we rode our horses through picturesque fields, our guide shared stories and recounted the many reasons people journey here—spiritual pilgrimages and extraterrestrial encounters among them. After a leisurely ride and obligatory horseback photo ops, we continued to our next destination—Santa Maria de Montserrat Abbey.

Chiseled into the cliffs, Santa Maria de Montserrat Abbey (Montserrat, 08199 Montserrat, Barcelona) is a Benedictine monastery dating back to 1025—one THOUSAND years ago! It is home to a revered religious artifact, the Black Madonna (La Moreneta). According to legend, shepherds discovered her in a cave in 880 AD—but the actual origins are a mystery.

As we waited for our scheduled entry time, we heard enchanting hymns drifting through the fortified walls: the ethereal voices of the Escolania de Montserrat, one of Europe’s oldest boys’ choirs. I loved that moment, waiting in quiet veneration, listening to the echo of their angelic voices.

Inside, the abbey was dimly lit. Candlelight flickered, shadows shifting across the carved stone. In stark contrast to La Sagrada Família, a silence heavy with reverence filled the space.

Despite centuries of invaders and the relentless passage of time, the abbey has sheltered a thousand years of devotion. This symbol of resilience inspires awe regardless of culture, background, or beliefs.

This mini-adventure outside Barcelona was well worth the effort. Montserrat is more than a religious site—it symbolizes Catalan spirit. After our visit, I felt more connected to Catalonia’s complex and unique culture, as if I had stepped beyond the polished façade of Barcelona and pulled back the curtain on the region's more authentic identity.

We returned to our hotel for a quick refresh before diving into the lively and charming neighborhood of Poble Sec. Our mission? An experience that blends finger food with the fun of bar-hopping: Pinchos!

Each bar has its own take on pinchos (or pintxos, as they’re known in Basque Country)—small, flavorful bites served on slices of bread and held together with toothpicks. The system is simple: grab what looks good, keep your toothpicks, and pay based on how many you’ve collected. We wandered from bar to bar, sipping cold beer and sampling an endless parade of jamón-topped toasts, cheese-stuffed peppers, skewered prawns, and smoky chorizo.

This might have been one of my favorite nights in Barcelona, thanks to the ease of self-service, the focus on regional flavors, and the lively yet laid-back atmosphere. Hours passed with ease as we rambled through the neighborhood, guzzling beer and indulging in many toothpick-tallied snacks.

The night ended at Bobby’s Free (Pau Claris, 85, 08010 Barcelona), a speakeasy hidden behind the facade of a barbershop. Entry is only granted by a slick-looking bouncer with the correct password. After an embarrassing amount of time, we finally managed to guess it, much to the bouncer’s amusement (after staring blankly at an obvious clue for far too long despite his hints and gestures—we were a few beers deep at this point!)

Inside the speakeasy was a zany and rowdy club where we partook in some pricey and elaborate (but no less delicious) concoctions before calling it. We had a dizzying walk home, but we slept well that night!

Places Mentioned

Bobby's Free

📍 Carrer de Pau Claris, 85, 08010 Barcelona
🔗 https://bobbysfree.com/
A hidden speakeasy disguised as a barbershop, known for its craft cocktails and lively, Prohibition-style atmosphere. Entry requires a password.
🕒 Monday–Sunday: 6 PM–2:30 AM

Natural Hípic

📍 Carretera BV-1122, Km 0.45, 08296 Castellbell i el Vilar, Barcelona, Spain
🔗 https://www.naturalhipic.com/
A Western-style equestrian center offering horseback riding through the scenic Montserrat landscapes.
🕒 Hours vary; check the website for bookings.

Poble Sec

📍 Poble Sec, 08004 Barcelona
A lively neighborhood known for its vibrant nightlife. Explore along Carrer de Blai, a pedestrian street lined with bars, for pinchos (or pintxos)—small, flavorful bites typically served on slices of bread with toothpicks.

Santa Maria de Montserrat Abbey

📍 Carretera BP-1121 S/N, 08199 Montserrat, Barcelona
🔗 https://www.abadiamontserrat.cat/
A revered Benedictine monastery founded in 1025.
🕒 Monday–Sunday: 7:30 AM–8 PM
🎟️ Free entry (additional fees for museum, funiculars, or guided tours).